The MusicMachine is a music box-style artistic sculpture shaped like a spaceship. The base is produced from walnut wood and covered in a piano lacquer-style finishing. Wood is necessary because it assists with the transmission of the sound. The music player itself is of course mechanical, and wound up like a watch. The propellers on top of the unit are used to wind it up. There are double air regulators on each side that spin when the unit is working that help ensure a consistent tempo for the music. The "legs" of the unit are in aluminum.
Quite remarkably Christophe Claret has released a watch that "merely" tells the time. Yes, it is true: while the new for 2014 Maestoso is anything but a simple watch, its only indications are the hours and minutes. That is kind of a big deal from a man who finds standard minute repeaters and tourbillons to be more or less passe. Nevertheless, the Maestoso is an extreme exercise in mechanics and with a detent-style escapement and constant force escapement, it should once again prove to be an object that captures our horological fascination.
They did, however, carry over the narrow hands you commonly see on measurement tools. While these aren't as wide as some may like, they are of the appropriate length, and allow you to easily read out the hours, minutes and seconds as they extend precisely to the track you need to read from.
4. How To Choose What Watch To Buy
The case back is – unfortunately – not revealing any parts of the movement, instead it bears two more displays which complete the Masterpiece No.1. The more interesting of the two is the one called "declination display" and it indicates the latitude at which the sun at 12 noon stands 90° above the horizon – or in other words when a stick standing upright in the ground would cast no shadow. The thin red line moves up and down between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn in the course of the year; or between 23.5° northern latitude and -23.5° southern latitude. As Antoine Martin explains, "declination is required for navigational purposes and is used with right ascension to locate heavenly bodies". In reality, it is just really cool to have a map of the world displayed on the back of your watch, with a red line officiously running up and down on it throughout the year. Below it is the indication for the movement's six days of power reserve, while next to the "map" is a little plaque showing the location to which the mechanism and its astronomical indications were set for.
The Genie 02 is a rather complicated watch given the fact that it has a mechanical altimeter in it. When Breva originally released the Genie 02 they tried to pen it as a watch for use on high mountains while skiing to check your altitude. I figured it made a bit more sense for them to focus on it being an aviation watch. So that is exactly what they did with the Genie 02 Air.
Eterna's challenge in the coming years is one of mostly marketing. If they play their cards right, they will have an amazing product, both in design and value, that could embarrass the pricing of some of the competitors. How's that? Let's start with the fact that the Caliber 39 - a movement from the company that actually began ETA - in its GMT form, with some special features that no other movements have, is in a watch that, in is most expensive configuration, still comes in at under ,000. Yes, that is the pricing of an entry-level Zenith or Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, but not one with this type of case and on such a bracelet.
According to Seiko, these six new Seiko Astron GPS Solar design options have been inspired by the curvature of the earth. With the same movement inside, these new designs feature a new case, dial, hands, and dramatically curved sapphire crystal. Seiko claims that these new crystals require over ten hours of polishing to get right. Part of this explains the higher price of these models compared to the other Seiko Astron GPS watches, but since Seiko produces their own synthetic sapphire crystal - they are still reasonably priced.
That means that a brand like Frederique Constant will mostly appeal to knowledgeable watch lovers who know when they are looking for a classy dress watch or conservative sport watch - with an in-house movement or not - Frederique Constant is a quality choice. Honestly, I hope it stays that way. I don't want the brand to start getting ideas about putting tons of money into marketing, raising their prices, and hope that they will upgrade their status by BSing people and abandoning the values that made them great. Countless other brands have done so - and I can't say that they have all fared well as a result. The good news is that I don't think Frederique Constant will do this. Their CEO, Peter Stas, has a slightly different agenda if I can predict his actions correctly. He is sort of making a public challenge to the Swiss watch industry as a whole, showing consumers that as a brand you don't need to charge a ton for a handsome, well-made watch. He is clearly a businessman, but there is something really noble in that mission.
Starting from the home page you can scroll down and then click to see previous pages where up to 11 articles per screen will be tiled with images and some article summaries. We've adopted the more modern "tiled" approach that helps bulk content together in a way that doesn't feel too crowded or ordinary. This gives each page a truly unique feel with a mixture of beautiful watch pictures that help browsing and selecting articles to read comfortable and rewarding.
The next step in production is prototyping, which is done just next door to the R&D department. Above, you see this department – and Ismael, who is one of the two-man team there – and this is where new designs are assembled, from those stacked boxes containing different component packages ready to be assembled and tested. This department is responsible for finding design flaws that would compromise long-term reliability, accuracy, or aesthetic appeal of the finished product.
Nowadays, watch design seems extremely focused on two extremes, one being a rather design-less, minimal and anti-skeuomorphic approach inspired by the ever powerful Apple doctrine of un-materialism; the other one is massive mechanical expressionism rendered in the most excessive possible way. Both have the same lethal goal of appealing to the lowest common denominator of taste in order to attract the masses and sell more watches.
On the dial side of Christopher Ward C65 Classic, we see a new color the Trident lineup hasn't had before (optic white), along with a familiar hue (matte black). Since they've moved things into a dressier direction, the circle-and-bar indices of the C60 have been traded out for narrower, raised, bar indices. Tucked under that dial is a shift in movement as well. It's still Swiss, but they've moved away from ETA and have instead opted for a SW200-1. Still a capable movement, and likely reflective of the tightening ETA supplies more than anything else.
You can view the full "The Use of Dispreferred Markers in World-of-Mouth Communcation" study here.
With that in mind, it is easy to see why this face lift – as they like to say in the automotive industry – is most welcome news from the Le Locle-based manufacture. What is new for the Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver in 2014 is a number of aesthetic improvements, so let's see what these are one by one.
Just an in-house made movement? Yes and no. What is important to understand here is the quality of this particular in-house produced mechanical movement and the price being asked for it compared to similar Swiss movements. For about ,000, you can own a really nice movement with very attractive features.
This collection really resonates with me. I'm a fan of vintage pieces and the history behind them. The Rolex Cellini Time feels like it was created by a manufacture that understands their history and approaches it with reverence. Interestingly, the minute track is not at the edge of the dial, but instead it bisects the hour markers. I'm not sure that I'm a fan of the dial markers being split by the minute track. If the markers weren't so long, or the minute track as far in from the edges as it is, the hands might be too short. As implemented, the minute hand reaches the minute track and the hour hand reaches the hour markers and it feels well-proportioned.
PS: Yes, bought it with a substantial part of my savings.
Ask Us Anything
Will A New Strap Affect A Watch’s Value?
by aBlogtoWatchLeave a comment
If there is anything I really appreciate, it is the crispness of the dial and decent level of legibility. The hour markers are lumed and easy to see, while the hands are legible enough (despite being too short). Actually, Ballast would have makes the hands longer but it would have required them to further increase the thickness of the case. At 47.2mm wide the watch is large, but in a way that fits with a lot of modern fashion sport watches. While this particular model is a steel case with a rose gold PVD coating, there are also brushed steel or black variants.