Welcome back to an original aBlogtoWatch feature, "My First Grail Watch." In this series, we ask prominent people in the watch industry about the first timepiece that they lusted after. Today, we're speaking with Rudy Chavez, president of the North American arm of Baume & Mercier. Read on to learn what model from the B&M catalog eludes him even to this day.
This particular dial style comes matched to a round case or this quasi-cushion-shaped case. At 41mm wide, I felt the size was nice, being neither too small or too large, and the unique look of the case makes the simple dial feel a bit more interesting. For a watch at this modest price level the fit and finishing are pretty nice.
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One of the most impressive pieces that we have seen at SIHH 2015 is Girard-Perregaux’s Tri-Axial Tourbillon. This is not a brand new watch, however. It was actually launched last year, but Girard-Perregaux has updated that model and is now available in white gold and has a newly designed dial. The end result is a very technical looking watch - it looks as if it was designed to be worn by men in white lab coats. Even though it is not new, the tri-axial tourbillon, which rotates at three different speeds, is still a grand feat in watchmaking.
What makes the Citizen Promaster Aqualand particularly usable to me for diving are two unique features that are most commonly found in either dive computers or mechanical watches ten times the price of this one: a depth gauge with indication of current depth and max depth.
Going back to my original thoughts at the opening of this review - I think looking at the Uniform Wares 351 Series as a traditional "watch guy" might result is seeing pleasant, albeit slightly underwhelming design. From the perspective of a design lover, the simplicity and elegance of Uniform Wares watches might be like a breath of fresh air. As it is, the pricing of the watches means that they are more than what most mainstream consumers want to spend, but less than what most mechanical watch lovers spend - putting the brand is a strange market position. Having said that, Uniform Wares is doing well, so my price concerns might be too conservative.
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"Extremely complicated" is a term we are used to hearing when it comes to Patek Philippe – for all the other most notable pieces check out our article on the 17 rarest and most expensive Patek Philippe watches here. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime however comes in at the very top of the food chain, with its massive 47.4 millimeter wide and 16.1 mm thick case and incredibly intricate movement comprising 1,366 components – including three gongs and three hammers and altogether 20 complications displayed over two dials. The case is also reversible, meaning it flips around. The movement also has a unique 3.5 Hz (25,200 bph) frequency.
Everyone else should be aware that timepieces make excellent collectibles and are wonderful to learn about and own, but consider them a luxury expense and not an investment vehicle. This is important to think about, because some watch companies, retailers, or auction houses like to suggest the notion of items increasing in value over time, and that purchasing certain timepieces is a "good investment." Watches make as good of an investment as cars do. Most lose a lot of value after being purchased new and have an expected level of depreciation each year. If you are lucky enough to have a car (or watch) that will vastly increase in value and wasn't extremely expensive to begin with, it will most likely only do so long after you have passed away.
I imagined it would take multiple iterations of prototypes before everything worked properly, so machining all the components out of the specified materials in every case was out of the question due to my budget limitations. As I continued to do research in the world of 3D printing, I stumbled across a relatively new technology known as Multijet modeling process or MJM. This method will create a thin sheet of material using multiple print nozzles, and then polymerize each layer using a UV lamp. Not only is this UV-cured acrylic very durable, but it can be printed at a resolution of 0.01mm as opposed to 0.1mm for most standard 3D printers. This meant that I could now have print resolution roughly 1/10th the thickness of a sheet of paper. This increased the accuracy and precision of my components significantly; and so I was finally back on track to recreating the Urwerk UR-202 in honor of the great watchmakers and designers behind it.
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